Espresso is a science – but also a matter of taste. In recent years, a lot has changed in the world of specialty coffee. New trends, shifting expectations and a growing understanding of coffee as a complex natural product mean that classic recipes no longer work for every coffee.
In this article, we take you through our espresso recipe development. We share what we've learned over the years, the challenges we're currently working through, and why it often makes sense to break the rules.
Espresso Recipes: Then and Now
When we started making espresso more than ten years ago, the standard recipe was clear: 16 g in, 50 ml out, in 25 seconds. That's what we learned back then at the Berlin School of Coffee. The idea that a single espresso cup needed to feel adequately filled was one of the reasons for the relatively high output.
In recent years, brew ratios of 1:2 to 1:2.5 became common – with increasingly long extraction times, aiming to pull out more sweetness and depth. Lighter roasts in particular seemed to benefit from this. But with more experience came doubt: why does an espresso sometimes taste cleaner and more balanced at 22 seconds than at 32? And is it even acceptable to extract coffee in under 25 seconds?
Roast Level, Cell Structure and Fermentation
A key insight: roast level has a massive impact on extraction.
- Dark roasts are more porous, extract more easily, produce fewer fines (tiny coffee particles) and dissolve faster – they often don't need long extraction times at all.
- Light roasts are denser, harder to break down, and produce more fines when ground, which can lead to over-extraction.
The takeaway: the lighter the coffee, the trickier the extraction. You need to be more careful with grind size and recipe – otherwise you'll quickly end up in a bitter, sour no-man's-land.
The "High-Fermented" Effect
Another central topic is the growing number of fermented coffees. Coffees with special processing methods such as thermal fermentation, anaerobic fermentation or carbonic maceration change the game:
- Their cell structure is already highly broken down.
- They need less time to release their flavours.
- Long extractions often lead to over-extraction.
- The flavour becomes overly loud, syrupy and one-dimensional.
Our approach: shorter recipes with more output. This keeps the espresso cleaner, fruitier – and above all, more drinkable.
Espresso Doesn't Have to Be "Loud"
When developing signature espressos, there's a risk of confusing distinctiveness with intensity. Coffees get pulled extremely tight and quickly taste over-extracted. That might create a brief WOW on the first sip – but rarely do you want to finish the cup.
Our philosophy at ERNST: clarity over loudness. Subtle aromas rather than overwhelming flavour explosions. Approachability over provocation.
Typical Espresso Recipes by Coffee Type
| Coffee Type | Typical Recipe | Goal |
|---|---|---|
| Dark roast | 16–18 g in / 32–40 ml out / 20–25 s | Creamy, low acidity |
| Light washed | 18–20 g in / 40–45 ml out / 28–32 s | Clean, floral, fruity |
| High fermented | 17–18 g in / 45–50 ml out / 18–23 s | Juicy, balanced, without over-extraction |
How to Approach a New Recipe
- Set a starting point: e.g. 18 g in / 40 ml out / 30 s
- Taste and assess: too sour? too bitter? too flat?
- Try two extremes: once tighter (e.g. 1:1.5 / 35 s), once longer (e.g. 1:2.5 / 20 s)
- Find the sweet spot: where do fruit, sweetness, body and clarity come into balance?
Important: not every coffee will taste the same in every setup. Experiment, compare, taste!
Espresso recipe development isn't a one-time decision – it's an ongoing experiment. It takes curiosity, a bit of theory and a genuine enjoyment of tasting. Be bold, stay open. Don't let the numbers intimidate you. The best espresso is the one you actually enjoy drinking.